Mar
05

Tube Jig Fly

By Neal Osborn

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Tube Jigs are deadly for warmwater bass fishing, especially for smallmouth bass.  Over the past two years I have tied and tried many various patterns to mimic the action of tube jigs, but with limited success.  As many of you know, the tubes are deadly in areas with shallow rock structure, and that is where smallmouth and shoalies love to hang out.  The deep crevices and nooks hold fish when you would often think otherwise.  The trick is getting the lure over the structure in a lively manner to entice the fish to strike.  That is where the gear fisherman have a golden horn in the tube jigs.  These lures have an action that calls all fish to them.  However, on the fly fishing side, it has been a challenge to develop an effective pattern that has a similar movement and will sink to depth in time to start the strip retrieve before the line bellows out and creates slack.  A wooly bugger just won’t work in many situations and it lacks the movement of a tube jig.  On the other hand, heavily weighted flies are often too hard to cast and require 10wt rods or greater, which is often impractical. Also, the Estaz fly rod tube jig patterns are just not bulky enough to provide the lively action necessary to make the fly look alive under water.
Thus, after many variations, my current tube jig fly pattern has evolved into a very effective, if not deadly, pattern.  The secret is the use of the new Enrico Puglisi EP Crustaceous Brushes in combination with a balanced head-forward weighting system.  The EP brushes allow you to add bulk and sculp the tube shape without added weight, and the lead wire and lead eyes give the fly the wiggle-waggle motion when retrieved.  These flies can be fished with a floating wf line on a long 10-14 foot leader (in shallow water or on rock structure) or with a sink tip line (in deeper water or early in the season when depth is critical).

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RECIPE

Hook: Eagle Claw 410 1/0 Bronze (purchased in bulk from DO-IT Molds http://www.do-itmolds.com/)

Thread: Mono 0.006

Eyes: Lead Eyes, medium or large

Flash: Krystal Flash, color to match brush/body color

Tail: Flat Rubber, about 20 strands

Body: Enrico Puglisi EP Crustaceous Brush (best colors for bass are Toby Toad Black/Yellow, OCRB-OL Olive, TOBR Toad Black/Red, 3T 3-Tone)

Weight: Lead Wire, 0.030

Fly Length: 3.5 inches

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Instructions

Select your EP brush to suite your fishing needs.  Proven color combinations are listed above, but the sky is the limit.

Examples

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Then choose the rubber for the tails to match the brush color scheme.  I get my rubber from the local bass shop; they have tons of rubber which is used to tie spinner bait and jigs.

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Choose the Krystal Flash to match the colors in the rubber and brush body of the fly.

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Remember to use an Eagle Claw jig hook, size 1/0.  The shape is important to the movement of the fly.  These can be purchased for either freshwater or saltwater.

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Start the mono thread and wrap a good base at the front of the fly.

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Tie in the lead eyes using cross wraps and secure tightly.  Leave at least one eye length of space in front of the eye before the bend.  This will avoid crowding at the end of the brush wrapping sequence and leave room to tie off the mono thread at the end.  Glue the eye down with superglue before proceeding.

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TIe in the Krystal Flash at the tail, about the length of the hook shaft.

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Tie in the rubber tails.  There are a few tricks here: first, use about strands total of rubber; each will be folded over so the amount of rubber at the back will be double when you are finished.

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This is how you tie in the rubber so that it creates an even wrap around the hook shank.  Take half of each color of rubber (if you are combining colors) and separate them into two bundles, about 10 strands each.  Then take the first bundle and tie it in the middle along the side of the hook. Then fold the other half over the hook shank on the other side. Next LOOSELY wrap the rubber back toward the bend and nudge the rubber with your fingers into a gentle and even spiral.  Bring the thread back up to half way mark of the hook shank and repeat.  Remember to wrap the rubber loosely each time.  Once you have completed the loose wraps and the rubber tails are nice and even in the back, then tightly bind the rubber with multiple hard wraps.  The tails are now evenly dispersed and tightly bound. Examples shown below.

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Once you have tightly bound the rubber tails, fill the gap between the rubber and the lead eyes with 0.03 lead wire. Bind the wire tightly with the mono thread.

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Tie in the EP brush at the rear of the fly precisely at the junction of the rubber tails and the mono thread.  Be sure and cut a small amount of fibers away to provide a clean tie-in wire.

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Now you are ready to palmar the EP brush forward.  Remember to wrap each spiral tightly and use your fingers to move the posterior fibers backward.  This constant sweeping of the fibers backward allows you make tight wraps and also frees the fibers for later trimming.

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You will use the entire EP brush to complete the fly.  Palmar forward until the brush is firmly nudged against the lead eyes.  Then cross over the top of the eyes and continue in front about three more turns.  You should be just about out of brush material by now.

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Continue palmering the brush forward down the bend and then tie off.  Clip the excess material and wire and whip finish.

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NOW THE FUN BEGINS!!!

You need to trim the fly to shape.  Use long shanked scissors if possible and remember the sharper they are, the easier it is trim.  Make a bullet tube jig shape with your scissors using short snips from the back to the front.  Keep the longer fibers in the back, you want them to overlap the rubber tails.  This will provide a nice even taper to the fly when wet.

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Now go fish!  These tube jig flies are very lively in the water and the smallmouth and shoal bass hammer them with reckless abandon.

Additional fly art

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Comments

  1. Simon Graham says:

    Fantastic tutorial Neal. Those EP Brushes look out of this world. By the way it is you I have to thank for inspiring me to take better images of my flies. Your site has been extremely helpful my friend.

  2. Neal Osborn says:

    Hi Simon,

    The pattern was developed for bass. Particularly small mouth and shoal bass. However, the pattern works well for large mouth bass and just about any species of fish that live near structure such as rocky shoals.

  3. Simon Graham says:

    interesting flies Neal,whats the target species your using them for?