Archive for Photography: Gear
Reel Art
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This is a quick markup of a shoot I did recently featuring my Tibor Light, Spring Creek CL reel. I love this little jewel of a reel, especially paired with a Fiberglass rod. For small spring creek trout fishing in the North Carolina mountains, this setup is a joy to fish. Also, it makes a really cool sound that is distinct to the product.
How to Improve Your Waterproof Point-and-Shoot Camera in Low Light
Posted by: | CommentsIt is my opinion that the waterproof point-and-shoot (P&S) cameras are invaluable tools for fly fishers. They are very powerful cameras once you learn to compensate for their deficiencies. Unfortunately, they often get a bad rap on the internet. It is wise to read the critiques carefully and understand the author’s bias. The FAS workshops now focus almost exclusively on the waterproof P&S cameras because frankly most of the questions are specifically about these camera models. In my experience, the waterproof cameras are the most common cameras in the general fly fishing community, but there is a lack of understanding on how to properly use the gear. The analogy here would be learning to fly fish with a moderately priced 5wt fly rod – make sure the instructor is able to teach on that particular rod and not giving you a fast action 4wt because he prefers that setup. Learn the basics and you can achieve great outcomes. At the time of this article, both the Olympus Stylus and Pentax Optio are great cameras. Newer models are even more advanced. However, the frustration with low-light photography is shared by many fishers and this is a limiting condition for any camera. The following post will offer tips and tricks for Pentax Optio W20 camera, but the principles are the same regardless of the camera brand. These adjustments can be performed on any waterproof camera.
5 Tips on getting better pictures with your waterproof point-and-shoot camera.
1. Select the appropriate camera mode
2. Adjust the EV to compensate for the available light
3. Adjust the ISO to compensate for the available light
4. Use flash wisely
5. Use photography software for post processing
Things you can do with a waterproof point-and-shoot camera
Posted by: | CommentsClick the picture to view the slideshow. When the slideshow opens in a new window make sure to choose the white square and the bottom to view the images in full resolution.
I love my waterproof point-and-shoot camera (Olympus Stylus 770SW). It is essentially worry free, it can take a drop from 10 feet without damage, it can get wet, and it can submerge very deeply in the water without concern. It is with me on the river and on every vacation. After two years I have learned how to unlock it’s full potential. It certainly has limitations compared to my dSLR, but it’s potential never ceases to amaze me.
In light of the more recent posts on fly photography, you have seen how to use your point-and-shoot to take fly pictures. I thought it would be fun to show other pictures I have taken with my 770SW. Click the picture above to view the slideshow.
As you view the pictures notice that the metadata is included on the bottom. This should help you better understand how each image was captured. Most of the images are out of the camera with only minimal post editing manipulation. I have alerted you when Photoshop was employed to give an artistic effect. Remember, once you learn to manipulate the scene modes in combination with adjustments in ISO and exposure compensation your camera will come alive. That’s when it gets fun. Your point-and-shoot is a good camera regardless of the brand or price point.
How to Make a Macro Photography Art Studio
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Macro art studios come in all shapes and sizes. They range in complexity from the simple table top and hot lamp setup to the advanced fully functional studio with all the bells and whistles. My own is an example of the later. You will figure out your needs as you progress. For example, I started with a simple single-light setup on my tying bench but as time went on I developed an interest in creative lighting which required a much larger working space. I read a lot about studio setups and searched the internet for examples of professional photography studios. Out of this research came a few common themes like a sloped back wall for placing backgrounds, a broad working floor, a long front end, and plenty of places to hang props, lights, and modifiers. I played around with many different ideas until one day I got the idea for a PVC base. The rest is history. Seriously, making my own devoted studio was the foundation for advancing my fly art photography. You need a place to create.
Why PVC? Because it is sturdy, durable, portable and cheap. You can modify it to your spacial limitations and it is very easy to cut and shape. And my wife loves it because I can break it all down and store in the closet when not in use.
For most people, a basic light tent is about all you need to get fine shots of your macro subjects. The style like the one shown below is highly recommended. You can find these at any photography store or eBay. However, I require a much bigger and more functional setup because I generally don’t use hot lamps. Instead, I am exploring off camera flash and creative lighting.
Neal’s 10 C’s of Photography
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A while back I made a checklist list for photography because I found myself needing a quick assessment for my pictures. When starting out you don’t always know what questions to ask yourself in order to make adjustments. Furthermore, we often see wonderful pictures posted on the internet and want to create similar images ourselves but don’t know how to go about breaking down a shot into parts for examination. Like fly fishing, there is a lot going on – By knowing the basics you can better look at a scene and have at least a starting point on what fly to choose and what leader to use, the rest of time we are adjusting on the water as the day progresses.
At first, it is common to shoot a bunch of pictures, load them on the computer and then stare aimlessly wondering if you like the result. However, if you have a checklist memorized, you can quickly hone in on what is wrong with a picture and either make adjustments or ask higher level questions of others to help you out. Instead of asking, “do you like this picture, what would you do differently?”, you can now say, “I am having trouble with the white balance in this picture and the composition seems wrong, I think I should have used f/10 instead of f/4, maybe a shorter focal length lens, what do you think?” By thinking in this way, you can produce better quality images in less time and become more efficient at post production (i.e. waste less of your valuable time).
